The dawn of Bagan
It is said that the sunset in Bagan is on the list of 50 things to see absolutely and I remember that the first time I heard about it was a few years ago when it became over time one of those popular destinations absolutely not to be missed. I had gone to see some photos of myself and I thought it was just a show.
And after a few years here I am, at the bus station in Yangon waiting for my bus to Bagan to leave
First of all, if you do, do it. Take a public bus from the city centre to Yangon and get off at the bus station. Better than going to the bumper cars! Once you get there, don’t miss out…the bus station looks like a village divided into districts, finding the bus at first sight is not easy.
From Yangon to Bagan
To reach Bagan I took a night bus (15000 kyats), not even then put so badly; they depart with the setting of the sun and arrive in the middle of the night. I arrived in Bagan at 4 in the morning.
Dealing with the Burmese taxi drivers is much more civilized than doing it with the Thai ones. They are polite, they speak one at a time and you can even make a speech. After paying the entrance fee of 15000 Kyats, the taxi takes us to our various hostels.
I met several guys who, arriving by train, managed not to pay it; with the bus it’s impossible, you have to pass in front of it. Both in the archaeological area and in the center, the ticket is never checked.
My hostel is called Bagan Central Hotel and it is located in New Bagan. Rooms with mattress lying on the ground and a bathroom where the water rises putrid from under the toilet once the water is pulled. Another dilapidated hostel is quite expensive, as are most of them. I wake up the guy at the reception and I get the bed in the dormitory, then going down the stairs and I meet a guy who rents mopeds. He wants to give me one, but I’m tired and the desire to drive early in the morning after half a night in the bus is practically nothing. So I decide to rent a moped and driver, I wear the heaviest clothes I have and gracefully I rest on the moped already on and ready to splash between the temples.
It’s a cold dog and the Shwesandaw Pagoda is not so close, we overtake many travelers with the bicycle that I do not envy at all, on the contrary, I always remain happier with my easy choice and not beaten at all. Steep steps lead us to the top of the Pagoda, where 20 other people before us have already positioned themselves in the best places to watch the sun show.
The stars give way to a low mist, which gets thicker as the light timidly arrives. A bright pink is the background to the painting. An immense, infinite, even a little magical expanse. Low saplings that leave room for the numerous tips of the stupa. I try to see how far they go, but it’s practically impossible. Maybe they never end.
The roosters have been singing for a while now, someone turns off the fires lit between the brushwoods to warm up, then the colors fade and the fog becomes even more turbid and dense, when at a certain point the sun decides to go out illuminating the mist, which takes on warm pastel colors and the whole picture in a flash becomes a masterpiece. The first hot air balloon goes up in the air, from a distance to cross the valley, after her another thirteen follow her. A show that really leaves you speechless.
In all the blogs I’ve read they said that the best way to see the plain of Bagan is to take a bike and ride. Like hell!!! An atomic blow. I wouldn’t even do it again for a fee. Apart from the heat and the sun that beats you in the head that fortunately that day came and went, the roads are a continuous up and down, not to mention the dust that you breathe. Use the bicycle, but the electric one!!! I spent the whole afternoon between one stupa and another, but forgive me if I say so, in my opinion, seen one… seen all of them.
Yes, because the plain of Bagan seen from above, at dawn and at dusk is something really incredible, to go around the stupa is something absolutely boring. Those important ones marked on the map, are the most touristy and outside is full of Burmese trying to sell their small items, children chase you to sell the postcards with inciting and walking around until you can somehow divincolarti. Inside, the temple is never particularly exciting, with high walls, long corridors and giant Buddha statues, one on each side of the building. Beautiful are the temples with their internal staircases, which take you up to the top to admire the infinite panorama.
The next morning, with a German boy and his scooter, we witnessed another dawn on a stove completely besieged by photographers, just below the golf course. The sunset this time wasn’t as spectacular as the first, but the hot air balloons flew up from behind us and we could take pictures of them from the side that the sun colours.
In my opinion, two full days in Bagan is more than enough! Also talking with the other boys of the hostel the feeling of all and a bit the same. I decided not to go to visit the Monte Popa because I was told besieged by monkeys and I willingly avoid them. I had booked two nights, but I decided to miss one and get on the night bus that will take me to the lake Inle.